Dress pants should fall at a clean point near the top of the shoes, with a modest break that suits your height and the look you’re after. Direct answer:
- For a classic, formal look: dress pants should sit at the top of your hip bones, just below the navel, and the hem should break gently over the front of the shoe. A medium break is common, resulting in a small crease where the fabric meets the shoe. This creates an elegant, timeless silhouette.
- For a no-break or minimal-break style: the hem sits slightly above the shoe with little to no contact, producing a sharper, sleeker line often favored in modern tailoring.
- For a full-break or more traditional look: the hem sits over the shoe with a noticeable crease, which can appear heavier and is typically reserved for more conservative or vintage aesthetics.
Practical guidelines to determine your exact length:
- Stand in dress shoes with a neutral stance. Have a tailor or use a mirror to visually confirm the fall.
- If your pants have a belt, ensure the waist feels comfortable and the pants don’t pinch the waist; the waist position affects how the pant falls.
- The hem length should allow the front of the pant to lightly contact the shoe, forming a small break without excessive pooling around the toe.
If you want, I can tailor this guidance to your height, shoe type, and preferred pant style (slim, straight, or relaxed) to give a precise hem measurement in inches.
